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Common Name: Ball Python or Royal Python
Size: Adults average in size from three to five feet
Life span: Ball pythons are one of the longest-lived snakes. It is not unusual for these
pythons to live 20 – 30 years in captivity. One specimen lived for 47 years at the
Philadelphia Zoo.
General appearance: Ball pythons are named for their defense behavior of rolling into a
tight ball with their head in the middle. Like all other pythons, ball pythons have spurs at
their vents. There are many different color morphs and patterns available today in captive
bred specimens. The “standard” ball python has large chocolate brown markings with
lighter medium-brown spots interspersed between the darker spots. The belly is generally
off-white or a pale gray.
Housing requirements:
Enclosure: Remember that all snakes are escape artists and when designing an enclosure
it is of the utmost importance that whatever enclosure is used is made as escape-proof as
possible. Generally an adult ball python should be kept is a 30-gallon sized enclosure (12
inches x 36 inches).
Temperature: Daytime temperatures should be maintained at 80° - 85° F with a basking
temperature of 90° - 95° F. Nighttime temperatures should be 75° - 80° F.
Heat/Light: There has been no evidence to suggest that photoperiods affect the keeping
of this species. If a regular photoperiod is provided it is recommended to use fluorescent
bulbs in order to minimize the extra heat generated by incandescent bulbs. When
providing heat, do NOT use hot rocks. Hot rocks are notoriously unpredictable and can
cause serious burn injuries to your animal. Red basking bulbs or ceramic emitters can be
used to generate basking spots. Under the tank heating pads can also be used to help raise
the ambient temperature of the enclosure. It is recommended to routinely check the
temperatures of the enclosure with thermometers.
Substrate: Newspaper and newsprint make excellent substrate even though it is
not very attractive. It is easy to clean and is excellent to use when acclimating new
specimens to their enclosure. Wood shavings can also be used, though cedar should never
be used and some pine can also cause health problems as well. Aspen shavings are
usually an excellent choice if using wood shavings. If keeping the snake on wood
shavings, care should be taken when feeding the snake to avoid shavings becoming
lodged in the snake’s mouth.
Diet: Like all snakes, ball pythons are strictly carnivorous. Adult ball pythons can be fed
two to three adult mice per week. Hatchlings and juvenile animals can be fed one
appropriately sized prey item per week (i.e fuzzies for hatchlings, hoppers for slightly
older animals). It is important to note here that ball pythons are notorious for not eating
on a regular schedule. This is especially true of wild caught specimens. Whenever
possible try to obtain captive bred snakes that have already fed to minimize problems
eating. If your new ball python does not eat immediately it is important to not panic. Ball
pythons have been known to go months without eating and there are records of ball
pythons of not eating for 22 months. Often a variety of foods may need to be offered in
order to get the snake to eat and often many will only eat live food. If you are experience
difficulty getting your ball python to eat you may need to consult several more in-depth
texts on the subject.
Maintenance: Fresh water should be offered daily. If using newsprint then clean as
needed. Wood shavings should be spot cleaned as needed. Periodically, the enclosure
should be disinfected. A 5% bleach solution makes an excellent disinfectant. Be sure to
rinse the enclosure thoroughly after disinfecting. As always, be sure to wash your hands
thoroughly after handling your ball python or any cage accessories
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